I Think We Can All Agree That Brimham Rocks
Brimham Rocks helped shape my children - and my children helped shape the rocks in return
In 2007, we left London behind and settled in a perfect North Yorkshire spot - nestled between the Dales and the Moors. Our firstborn was three years old then, and I was pregnant with our second. We soon set about exploring our new home region and discovered rivers, coast, hills, and many ancient ruins. Then, one afternoon, we found ourselves in a very special spot in the Nidderdale National Landscape – a magical place filled with equal parts peacefulness, excitement, and drama; a place that would become a mainstay of my progeny’s childhood years. We found ourselves at Brimham Rocks.
Brimham Rocks is a legendary Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSI), and of Geological Conservation Review (GCR). This vast, 50-acre outcrop of exposed millstone grit offers a tantalising glimpse of more than 340 million years of landscape evolution. The rock formations here constitute a geological library of epic proportion; an archive of some of the earth’s most dramatic stories – from the United Kingdom’s time as a tropical wonderland, to its sculpting by glaciers during the ice age; from the Domesday Book, to the Dissolution of the Monasteries, and beyond. But what makes Brimham so special is that it is a living landscape that invites us to both learn and participate. With every visit, we become part of the story ourselves.
The magic begins in the layers of silt, sand, pebbles, and crystals deposited by immense rivers rushing through the area over 300 million years ago. These deposits created the stripes that characterise the rocks of Brimham and are known as bedding planes. So, when we lay hands on these rocks and touch these layers, we’re touching sediment that was compressed into place long before the dinosaurs walked the earth. The magic continues in the carving of these ancient rocks, with the mechanical processes of erosion working away at the hard-wearing material over millennia, creating bizarre and eye-catching rock formations. Giant boulders and rounded slabs balance at angles that seem precarious and fragile, but have remained largely stable through seasons and tectonic shifts and trips around the sun.
It is the rock formations that have captured the imaginations of generations of Brimham visitors. In the 18th century, before the true age of the sculpted landscape was scientifically determined, many believed that Druids had created the rock stacks. This gave rise to some associated formation names, including the Noonstone, the Druid’s Writing Desk, Druid’s Head, Druid’s Pulpit, and Druid’s Coffin. The tradition of naming the formations continued after the Druid theory was abandoned – largely for the benefit of tourism. Visitors are now also encouraged to spot Eagle Rock, the Dancing Bear, Lover’s Leap, Anvil Rock, and Gorilla’s Head, among others.
But glaciers, ancient rivers, and harsh, windy Nidderdale weather are not the only explanations for the strange rocky structures. There are also trees. The history of Brimham involves notable woodland - some of which survives today - along with areas of wet and dry heath supporting vegetation ranging from cowberry and chickweed wintergreen to large colonies of bog asphodel. At certain times of the year, the sweeping carpets of heather that smother the surrounding moor are a sight to behold.
Ancient plant life has been noted as a likely cause of some holes and tunnels in the larger rock formations, with significant root systems having been trapped in the sediment as it was deposited, increasing the speed of erosion after the silt was compressed. Today, old and weary trees can still be seen, clinging to life as they appear to grow directly out of the stacks.
The way the Brimham landscape has been used throughout history provides a further fascinating element to its story. It once stood untouched by human processes, its rocky treasures hidden inside dense forest. Later, the local monks put it to work as grazing land to support their livestock. By the 18th century, Brimham’s reputation as a tourist attraction was growing steadily and this continued as an expanding private enterprise through to the 1960s. The site was acquired by The National Trust in 1971 and became a jewel in the crown of North Yorkshire - further protected from commercial exploitation and with future public access assured. The organisation has since worked to develop appropriate land management strategies, including the reintroduction of grazing cattle and plans for boardwalk access through areas of moor and bog - allowing visitors to explore the landscape more fully without damaging the fragile habitat.
From that very first visit, Brimham Rocks became a firm favourite for our family. When the time was right, our firstborn helped show our secondborn the way, and soon they were mastering the stacks together. For youngsters, this landscape makes for quite the adventure playground. An adventure playground with a remarkable history, filled with storytelling potential. We would decide whether to hide from the creature in the hollow, and then we would investigate who might have turned the Dancing Bear to stone. As we walked the trails, we would wonder to whom the Druid was writing, sitting at the vast stone Writing Desk. And all the while there was climbing. Scrambling and clambering. Scaling the stacks and conquering the heights. Picnicking atop the plateaus and marvelling at the views. Sheltering in caves as rain storms passed overhead. Only once getting stuck between boulders and needing my expert rescue services.
Today, we are among over 150,000 people who visit Brimham Rocks every year. Organised rock climbing groups, Scouts and Guides Groups, and schools make good use of the rock formations, hikers and walkers love the trails, and families and individuals spend hours exploring the nooks and crannies of the sprawling site. We all take our place in the long-running chain of stresses and strain placed upon these beautiful old rocks, which so diligently record all that rubs against them. These rocks, that generously share with us their 300 million-year-long tale, are still writing and still adding chapters. With two decades of visits, my sons have contributed a line or two and we are forever embedded in the landscape of Brimham Rocks.
I've never been to Brimham Rocks on my forays to North Yorkhsire – looks amazing, Sarah. Thanks for sharing this.